We were on a roll. Our canoe hit the water at 7:45 AM. Our gear was stowed, the cooler had plenty of ice and vitals, and Rigby was perched on the bow. This was our first official paddle and camp foray since Sleeping Bear Bay and the Finger Lakes. This time, however, we were paddling 3 miles to a campsite in the Great Dismal Swamp to peep the cyprus trees. With all of our experience and fortitude, however, we were only able to rough it for one night.
Swamp Climate
The swamp, as might be expected in a Virginia August, was just too swampy. Sure, It was hot, but the most brutal aspects were the bugs and the humidity. Maybe it was more of the combination. A perfect storm coupled with the fact that the lake and access canal were not suitable for drink or swimming. We have dealt with bugs, heat, and humidity, before but typically, we can cool off with a quick dip.
Magnifying our struggles while setting up camp was that Rigby was so hot that she cried incessantly. This was a lovely addition to the sweltering swamp conditions as we set up camp. This was at 10 AM. Desperate, we allowed Rigby to frolic and swim. Honestly, we were concerned with some swamp creature snapping her up. She emerged from the canal with a black film coating, her white chest and paws turned grey. She was sticky icky. We did not look forward to cuddling up with her in a muggy tent overnight.
Swamp Environment
In all honesty, however, if you take out the humid aspects of the swamp, it really was delightful. We began our paddle on a canal trail designed and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers. Lake Drummond is surrounded by a wildlife preserve and the access canals are controlled by a dam. It took us two hours to paddle to the primitive campsites at the dam. Man-powered watercraft may portage to the lake and motorized vessels may be hoisted over the dam with a tram system. The tram operator was particularly nice. The machine to portage boats was out of service.
Accessing Lake Drummond was probably some of the most magical paddles we have done to date. Of course, it was still humid, but the scenery was spectacular. Most Cyprus trees grew in groups with one or two sprouting up further out in the lake. Their trunks protruded from the lakebed and thrust upwards with coarse bark to a coniferous bouquet. We were alone. We were among the giants. Our hunter green Old Town canoe slid effortlessly along the pristine water surface. We slalomed amongst the trees ducking for shade as we marveled at the pure beauty. We’ve become so much more efficient and effective with our paddling. It’s a testament to how we’ve grown as a team since the inception of Canoe52.
After a couple of hours, we returned to camp to make lunch. We were schooled on just how swampy the Great Dismal Swamp could get. The air was thick. The grass was soaked. The prehistoric sized mosquitos were incessant. By 6 PM we were fantasizing about what our next place would be like. By 6:30 we decided to get back on the lake to see sunset just in case we decided to leave.
Enchanting Sunset
After dinner (Chili Mac-n-Cheese) we scurried out to the lake as the sun began to recede from its celestial perch. I was convinced we weren’t going to make it for sunset. Boy, I am glad I was wrong! As the sun crept behind clouds and inched towards the horizon, swirls of reds, orange, blue and purples filled the sky like Bob Ross working on a blank canvas. There were plenty of happy little trees both near and far. The sun backlit the trees creating a contrast between the heavens and earth.
On our paddle back to camp we had all but decided that one night was enough for Lake Drummond. Our excursion to the Great Dismal Swamp was 2-parts magical and 1-part brutal. We decided to quit while we were ahead. Our experience over the next several days in Virginia was such a contrast that this is the first state with two paddling stories. Check out our Virginia: Low Tide on the Eastern Shore post for more.
